Photography by Frank Lawlor
All-Day Coffee Cake
A break that lasts for hours
The Swedish coffee break, or fika, is among the most civilizing parts of the day. It’s just coffee, something sweet and baked, and a brief, peaceful respite from routine toil to remind you that you don’t live to work. You work to live.
Stephany Gocobachi of San Francisco’s Flour Child bakes a little something extra in her warm cardamom crumb coffee cake loaded with ruby red pomegranate-poached quinces.
“It’s approximately equal parts cake and crumb,” says Gocobachi, who, along with chef Akhil Khadse, performs sorcery with sustainable, infused jams, granolas and their own “extra-virgin” pressed flower rosin. It’s “very buttery, extremely adaptable, and something we love to make the most when the breeze starts to crisp up in the fall.”
Apples or pears work just as well, along with a dollop of sour cream, creme fraiche or whipped cream and a drizzle of reduced poaching liquid. But after your fika, where the course of the day leads will probably depend on which butter you add to your cake.
“If you’re planning to enjoy it in the morning, something bright and zippy like Sour Diesel or Jack Herer would play well with the cardamom and quince, and amplify the effects of your coffee (cake),” says Gocobachi. “For a perfect end to a dinner party, something with warm, earthy, or spicy notes would pair nicely with the spices and caramel-y brown butter notes, perhaps a Kush or Afghani.”
Either way, it makes for a fika with the potential to last all day.
Written by Mike Sula
Cake with Pomegranate-Poached Quince
- 2 cups pomegranate juice
- 2 cups red wine
- ¼ cup maple syrup
- 10 black or pink peppercorns
- 5 green cardamom pods, crushed to split open
- 5 allspice berries
- 5 cloves
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 star anise
- 6 firm, ripe quinces, peeled, halved, cored
- ⅓ cup, plus ½ cup turbinado or demerara sugar
- ⅓ cup, plus ¼ cup brown sugar
- 1 tablespoon cinnamon, divided use
- 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided use
- 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
- 2¾ cups all-purpose flour, divided use
- ½ cup unsalted butter, melted plus extra for greasing
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- ½ teaspoon baking powder
- ½ cup sour cream, labneh or full-fat Greek yogurt
- 1 egg
- 1 egg yolk
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 3 tablespoons unsalted cannabutter, softened*
- 3 tablespoons butter, softened
In a medium saucepan, combine pomegranate juice, wine, maple syrup, peppercorns, cardamom pods, allspice, cloves, bay leaves and star anise; add quince.
Cut circle of parchment to fit pan. Fold into eighths like a wedge of pizza and snip off tip to make a vent. Unfold and place directly onto quinces. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat; simmer gently 12 to 15 minutes. Turn quinces, replace parchment and continue cooking just until easily pierced; cool in the poaching liquid. Remove quinces, quarter lengthwise and set aside. Return pan to high heat; reduce poaching liquid to a thick, syrupy consistency; strain and discard spices.
In a small bowl, combine ⅓ cup turbinado sugar, ⅓ cup brown sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon salt and ground cardamom. Add 1⅓ cups flour and melted butter; mix until evenly moistened; set aside.
Combine remaining ½ cup turbinado sugar, remaining 2 teaspoons cinnamon and ½ teaspoon salt; set aside
Preheat oven to 325°F. Generously butter 9-inch springform pan.
Whisk together remaining flour, ¼ cup brown sugar, baking soda, baking powder and remaining ½ teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. In another bowl, whisk together sour cream, eggs and vanilla.
To flour mixture, add 3 tablespoons cannabutter, 3 tablespoons butter and a spoonful of sour cream mixture. Mix well, using an electric mixer or stand mixer. Spoon in remaining sour cream in two more additions; mix just until combined.
Reserve ½ cup cake batter. Transfer the rest to prepared pan; smooth top with rubber spatula. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Arrange half of sliced quinces on top; drizzle lightly with poaching liquid. Dollop reserved cake batter over quinces. Carefully spread with a spatula, covering quinces as much as possible. Break cardamom crumb into ½- to ¾-inch pieces; scatter over cake.
Bake until golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes. Cool 10 minutes. Loosen from sides with a small knife then remove sides of pan. Serve warm or at room temperature with remaining quince slices as desired. Makes 8 servings, each about 12.9 mg THC based on 15 percent strain.
Recipe courtesy of Stephany Gocobachi, Flour Child
Photography by Eva Kolenko